The thread used for a slip stitch is approximately 15cm longer than the tie itself, allowing it to slide a little as the tie is knotted and moved around. If a lock stitch was used, it would mean the silk of the tie would risk tearing against its stitches, particularly around the neck where most of the abuse is focused. For a tie, this makes all the difference as it’s exposed to some fairly tough conditions, namely being knotted and tugged several times on every occasion it’s worn. A slip stitch is largely self explanatory it’s a simple stitch which allows the thread to move freely or “slip” within its confines. The next part is the hallmark of a quality tie and a requirement in ensuring longevity and flexibility – the slip stitch. Another pin is inserted to keep the folded section secure and Evelyne then works up the length of the tie towards the halfway point, folding and pinning, before moving to the back (narrow) blade and working the in the opposite direction until the tie is folded perfectly.Įvelyne, using the template to secure the liningĬentreing the lining Folds being made along the length of the tie Next, the silk is folded twice, aligning cleanly in the centre. The lining is inserted into the front (wide) blade first and, using a small template, pinned in to place, holding it securely. Kamel Hamadou, holding a tie, ready to be cutĪ blend of wool and cotton is used to line the ties, as they are a relatively simple 2 fold construction. From here they are handed to one of Hermes tie makers to complete the process. Enter Evelyne. Once the dying process is complete (and subsequent treatments are applied to remove gum from the silk, softening it) the silks are cut to shape and the front and rear tips are sewn in. Saeed pouring dye onto a screen Saeed pushing the dye along the screen A silk scarf in the early stages of dying The silk is then rolled out on to a long table, held in place, then dyed using several screens and colours in the same way their legendary scarves are made (see images below). From here Hermes takes over, weaving the silk in house into long sheets of white billowy silk. The farms in South America where they source their raw silk, unwind the cocoons into wig-like wreaths, which are then sent to the Hermes facilities in Lyon. The Hermes involvement begins almost as soon as the silk worm is finished with its cocoon. Soon after receiving rolls of finished silk from a mill, the company will then cut those rolls into one yard lengths and, finally, have the individual ties hand cut out of those single lengths. The designs are usually created in house and given to the mills. Most high end tie manufacturers will commission silks from mills in Italy or the UK. The major difference with Hermes, in this instance, is that they step into the process earlier than anyone else. It’s a process similar to how most high quality ties are made, but with a few key differences, which we’ve come to expect from a company famous for its care for detail and innovative practices. Recently, I had the chance to sit down with Evelyne from Hermes, one of the houses tie makers, to document the process of how an Hermes tie evolves from raw silk to finished product.
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